Photo work: Forty photographers on process and practice, edited by Sasha Wolf
This book is as academic as they come! That is my review in short! If you are curious to look over the shoulders of 40 acclaimed photographers (like Andrew Moore or Paul Graham) and understand their process and workflow, then this is the book to read!
All 40 have been given the same questionnaire of 12 questions like “Do you create with presentation in mind, be that a gallery show or a book?”. The book is simply the documentation of 40 answers to these 12 questions.
This is not your beginners book about photography, nor the advanced book about photography, rather it is an look into the minds and workflows of some highly creative people. I could as well have been a book about painters – the questions and their answers are that agnostic to photography.
So only if you have a keen interest in this highly specialized area can I recommend this book – otherwise I would stay clear of the 255 pages of process and insights.
The Photography Storytelling Workshop by Finn Beales
This is not your average photography book – far from. Finn Beales apparently has landed some VERY big accounts (Apple, Land Rover, Audi, Cartier, etc) and in this book he shares how to pitch for a photography job, plan, deliver and maintain a good long lasting relationship with the client.
The book opens with a chapter about storytelling and how you make a series of pictures tie together to tell a story, with a clear red thread throughout the images – the last image holding the hand of the first one. It continues into how to pitch for a job, win it, plan it, execute the shoot day, edit and finally deliver. I learned a lot about how to manage such process (including the shoot day(s)) as a project and how much planning that is required.
There is a very good section in the book about what colors work together and why – and illustrated with specific examples to underline the points made. Finn coins this as creating a mood board. This was an eye opener for me. I have not come across a photo book where the use of color is addressed in this way and I can tell that this section of the book is one that I will re-visit over and over again.
Finn also has a section about which focal lengths he uses for what kind of shots and I really felt that this part of the book was like looking over the shoulder of a successful commercial photographer. I really found this part extraordinary, and as a result it re-ignited my love for the 50mm prime as a universal tool in my camera bag!
There also are some chapters about editing your photos, but here I felt that I did not learn that much new. However, Finn also addresses how to do data management of your photo files, and here there are lots of tips and tricks that I think you will find useful.
So all in all I found this book both interesting and useful, but if you are new to photography, this would NOT be the book I’d start with. There are better options from Joel Sartore and Michael Freeman. However, if:
storytelling with pictures
project management of your shoots
use of colors to create moods
creating and maintaining client accounts
processing and storing your images
are subjects of interest to you, then this book is definitely worth it. 176 pages with lots of illustrations and examples and exercises. And there is more to be found on his website.
I must admit that I was a bit disappointed when I opened the parcel the book came in, only to find a relatively small and not all that thick book. I had expected a big and heavy book – the bold name “bible” had created some expectations that the appearance of the book could not match.
However, as they say, don’t judge a book by it’s cover, or as in this case: by the size and weight of it. It really is comprehensive. I can understand why Michael Freeman has named this “The Photography Bible” because he really covers a lot of aspects of photography and manages to do so in a condensed way. The main blocks from the table of content are: Exposure, Light and lightning, Composition and Post Processing – distributed across 330 pages with lots of examples and so called challenges.
Challenges are exercises for you as a reader to take on to complete a chapter or an knowledge area. And the author in the foreword recommends that you follow the structure of the book from front to back and don’t just dip in here and there. I can see that great care has been made to present the subjects in a particular order and wrap it with an exercises (challenges) to enhance your learning, so I support the advice to read the book from front to back in its full and take up the challenges presented.
I can really recommend this book if you are after one of the most complete books about the basics of photography. And more than that – it is one of the few books that I have seen talk about soft and hard light, chiaroscuro lightning and not just aperture, depth of field and the like (which of course is also included). It also covers composition to a great extend – a subject that in itself could fill an entire book. So, in short, a great book if you are after a rather complete book about the basics of photography. But not a book that I would read from front to back, I more use it more as a reference when I want to study a subject in detail.
Review of the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan F. Peterson.
Book review
Understanding exposure by Bryan F. Peterson
The title of this book is well chosen as it is all about exposure. So for a beginner to photography I would not recommend this as a general introduction to photography, but if you have been shooting for some time and want to take a deep dive into the nuts and bolts of exposure, this is the book.
One of the things that I learned from this book is not to be afraid of closed down apertures. Bryans range for “normality” was way into my range of extreme apertures, so I have really had to work with my own convictions here. Another takeaway is how much you can do with the white balance on your camera – here I think the book (just look at the cover) gave me some insights that gave me appetite to try a different mode than auto white balance on my camera.
Bryan has several mottos, of which “you keep shooting” is one. I think he here refers to the fact that experience and persistence is key to becoming a better photographer. Another motto is “shoot the adjective, not the noun” and here asks us to look not only at the subject but also what works with the subject, for example background or the way light is shaped on its way through a fence.
I can recommend this book – not as your first buy – but certainly as one of your more advanced books. I did not find this to be an easy read, but certainly a rewarding one, if you really dig in. If you don’t feel like buying this book, try following Bryan on Instagram – he really gives some good insights to “behind the scenes” for the images he posts.
The title is very precise when it comes to this book: photo basics. It is an introduction to the basics of photography, but a very good one, probably one of the best I have read. It strikes a very good balance between covering all aspects of the basics without diving into too much detail. However, this does not imply that it is only a book about basics – there is information for both the beginner and more advanced photographer, but it is also a condensed reading, so you may want to revisit some sections several times.
The book is divided into two parts: the basics and practicing the basics, with these two parts evenly split across the 254 pages. The book is packed with beautiful photos, and there are tips and challenges for both the beginner and the more advanced photographers.
Joel’s motto is “if it is not working for you, it is working against you” – an advice related to what you decide to put in your frame. I find that what Joel has put in this book is all working for me as a photographer, and hence I can recommend this book wholeheartedly. If I was new to photography and could only buy one book, this would be the one.
I have been bitten by the photography bug! And seriously! Hope you will to! In this short post I try to explain why I think photography has got under my skin so very fast and probably will sit there until I drop!
Starting to see
Photography really changed the way I see the world. I am not sure to what extend I actually saw it before I started to get serious with photography. It is as if photography opens your mind to new ways of of seeing the world, you will start to notice things that were irrelevant to you before or you simply did not care.
Mental side to it…
You will find that when you get serious with photography, then there is a mental side to it that starts to appear: you find that your concentration and focus while shooting pushes every other thought or concern away, leaving you fully engaged into the photography work. This is both refreshing and charges your batteries in a way that not many other activities do. To me photography has an element of mindfulness to it that you become more and more aware of the more you shoot.
Beautiful sunset made up of several images blended in post.
Meaning…
If you ask me to go for a walk, a hike or bike to a nice location, you probably would be able to persuade me into the activity. Repeat that, and remind me that I can bring my camera, and I am all onboard the proposal! To me photography brings meaning or an additional element into activities like that and I find that almost anything (like taking the bus to work) is an opportunity for photography. It may sound silly and it may just be me, but that added dimension to an activity means a lot to me!
Opening presents all the time
In a video with photographer Fiona Lark, she described the process of opening images in post processing software as opening little presents and see what they contain! I fully agree! Most of the time I am disappointed I must admit! But just once in a while I am positively surprised by what I have captured and what I can do with it in post processing. And to my surprise it is often those images that I think nothing of during the shoot that are the best when I get back to the computer.
A continuous process
I recently did an exhibition where I had to select which images to go on the exhibition and which to stay home. I absolutely hated it! Reflecting upon the reason for this, I think it is because photography to me is 90% process and 10% result, and when you are forced to draw a line in the sand and present your portfolio, you are confronted with the 10%. But to me that is not the vital part, and I have feeling that later today or tomorrow, I can do and will do better than what I have done so far. So if I can just get 5 more minutes before I have to present my work…. So the ambition and the work to make my work better and occasionally succeeding is what makes photography a lot of fun.
All the way…
As you get older, there are probably a few things that you have to drop either because it is no longer an interest of yours or you simply get too old. I can still both hike, bike, run and swim, but skiing and roller blades are no longer on my agenda, and as I get older, I expect the list of things I can do to be shorter and shorter. Photography is one of those things that I both hope and plan can stay with me all the way; maybe I cannot climb the highest of mountains to get the best views for my images, but less can certainly do! And I am sure I will enjoy it as much as any other photographer, both younger and more fit than me!
Normally you would expect a skilled photographer to deliver clean, well exposed images, but with intentional camera movement (ICM) the aim is to make the images look a bit more abstract by introducing a deliberate camera movement while the shutter is open.
There really are no rules when it comes to ICM and you can develop your own style and expression. The classic way of doing it however is to move the camera along lines in the subject, so that you emphasize these and blur details. For example, in a wood with tall trees you would move the camera up/down in a vertical movement, whereas a landscape image with a horizon, you want the movements to follow the horizon left to right or the other way round. You can also move the camera more freestyle, for example try to follow a wave as it comes to shore. The possibilities are infinite and you can really develop your own style and expression. In the example below I have moved the camera in circles to get the effect.
The way to do ICM is to make sure your shutter is open for say 1/2 to 2.0 seconds. You may want to go down to 1/10th or up to 5 seconds, but start with 1/2 to 2.0 second just to get you going.
You can do this by putting your camera in shutter priority mode and simply ask the camera to leave the shutter open as you see fit. The camera most likely will put the camera in base ISO (say 100) and minimize the aperture to whatever the lens allows, say f/22, but you may find that this will not do and the picture is over exposed. This could happen if your are shooting a sunset or a bright scene. In such cases an ND filter is needed. An ND filter is basically a pair of sunglasses you put in front of your lens to minimize the amount of light that gets through. I use a variable ND filter that takes between 3 and 11 (!) stops of light out of the equation.
Don’t be discouraged if you come home with a lot of images that are no good. This is only natural, also for experienced photographers. You may find that out of 2-300 images, there are only a few if any that works. Keep going and eventually you will succeed! Best of luck!
If you heard that soft light is better than hard light, it is likely that statement came from a portrait photographer. Soft light is in general perceived as giving a more flattering look, where the light wraps gently around the subject.
But what is soft light? Soft light is light where the transition from bright to dark happens gradually, i.e. there is a lot of mid tones in the transition zones. Take a look at this pencil that I placed in my window space on an overcast day:
On a cloudy day, the sunlight is made into a massive light source as the light is spread across the vast area of clouds. In other words, the light source is huge! Notice the shadow at the tip of the pen? It is hardly there. You see a shadow where the pen rests upon the AirPod charging case, but the rest of the shadow is one big zone of tones of grey.
Now look at the next example, where I placed the pen under a reading lamp. A light source much smaller than the light from the clouds:
Suddenly you can now clearly see the shadow of the tip of the pen. If you look carefully, there still is a bit of grey zones where the white from the case transitions into the dark of the shade, but it happens much more abruptly than in the former example. The reading lamp as light source is simply much smaller.
Finally, the most harsh and brutal hard light I could think of: a flash held some distance from the subject with no diffusion at all! The bare bone flash activated here – you can see the flash light reflected in the yellow of the pen:
Notice the reflection of the flashlight on the pen.
In this final example, the transition from light case to shadow from the pen happens almost from one pixel to the next. Okay, maybe not so suddenly, but I hope the difference is clear.
It all comes down to the size of the light source, relative to the size of the subject. The bigger the light source, the softer the light.
So what should you use? As you may have guessed, my annoying answer is: it depends. Yes, for portrait photography you probably want to show the more flattering side of your subject and use flattering light. But hard light works fine as an artistic expression or to simulate a sunny day with no clouds at high noon. So use the softness of the light as a tool in your toolbox and use it deliberately, instead of just saying “soft light is the only light that works”.
