Should you upgrade from APS-C to full frame?

Many photographers start out with an APS-C (cropped) sensor camera and make their first system camera shooting experiences with such one. And with good results. But as you dive more and more into the photography universe and all the gear debate, you unlikely come across the big question: what sensor size is right for you?

The full frame (FF) name comes from the fact that the sensor size on full frame is the same as good old analogue 35 mm film negative from back in the days when photography wasn’t digital at all. A cropped sensor (APS-C) is a tad smaller and the micro four thirds is even smaller than that. To confuse things even more, an even bigger sensor size is now starting to gain a larger market share, the medium size format. So there is plenty to choose from.

The Nikon D750 is one of the most popular cameras Nikon has ever made.
Full frame, but at 24 MP the resolution is at par with many APS-C cameras.

What attracts you to full frame (FF)?

When I upgraded from my Nikon D5600/D7500 (APS-C) to D750 (FF) it was for 2 reasons (1) curiosity and (2) I had to see the improvement for myself. Retrospectively I can say that the difference is not as big as you may think. And it is expensive to switch all your glass! Only some glass from APS-C can be used on FF and often with some vignetting, although the mount may be the same and the lens hence fits fine irrespective of sensor size. So be prepared to invest in a new lineup of lenses if you make the leap from APS-C to FF. Good news if you are a Nikon or Canon shooter is that there is plenty of vintage glass out there so you can upgrade your glass collection at a fraction of the cost compared to buying new glass. But it is still a significant investment, especially if you insist on prime lenses and need to cover the full range of focal lengths.

Many will probably be surprised to learn that the APS-C sensor size only makes up
42% of the FF sensor, i.e. the FF sensor is more than 2 times larger than APS-C.

Put the question upside down!

If you want to understand what FF will give you compared to APS-C, you could look at it the other way and ask: what will a downgrade from APS-C to micro four thirds take away from me? As far as I can tell, not much. Portrait photographer Joe Edelman has made the shift, and so has the British landscape photographer James Popsys. None of them seem to miss anything, and they are happy that their gear and especially lenses weighs a lot less after they made the switch. So what is it with FF that is so attractive to some? Lets look at 3 arguments in favor of FF.

Low light performance (1/3)

One of the areas where FF shines is in terms of low light performance. The fact that the sensor is simply bigger dictates that it can pick up more light all things equal, i.e. that the APS-C and FF has the same pixel count.

Further, provided you compare sensors with the same pixel count, the larger sensor gives space for larger pixels and hence each pixel can attract more light. And all this points to better signal to noise ratio. This may sound very technical, but it simply means that the larger sensor is better at picking up the image then there is very little light.

If you are a portrait photographer like Joe Edelman using flashes left, right and center, this means very little, as flashes makes sure there is plenty of light. But if you shoot in low light situations where a flash would ruin the mood, like a restaurant, then the low light performance is key. So the dynamic range of your FF camera is typically better than it is for APS-C or micro four thirds.

Notice that the dynamic range is not the same as the ISO range. The ISO is simply a factor that is multiplied to the sensor reading, so an impressive ISO range simply means that your camera can multiply the sensor readings with a large number!

Background blur (2/3)

Another area where FF is often praised to be better than APS-C is when it comes to background blur or the separation of the subject and the background. Although this is true, you can get much of the same simply increasing the distance between your subject and the background. Or shooting with a more shallow depth of field. But there is no doubt FF has the upper hand here.

Some argue – and this is a long debate with many viewpoints – that the aperture is also to be multiplied with the crop factor, and hence you would also need a smaller (faster) aperture on the APS-C camera to get the same aperture effect (DOF / background blur) on an APS-C as you would for full frame. As far as I have been able to test, this is true, but most compare likes for likes only with regards to focal length and not aperture, and hence the short version is often that FF has more background blur and that the glass is heavier.

Curiosity and one excuse less… (3/3)

When I upgraded from APS-C to FF, the main driver was not so much the arguments in favor of FF, but rather that I was curious. I had read tons of articles, blogs and reviews explaining the difference between the two, but I had to see it with my own eyes. If you are like me, maybe the best and cheapest way forward is simply to rent or borrow a FF camera and get your curiosity satisfied. Then that itch is out of the way and you can see clearly again.

The other thing I wanted to achieve was one excuse less. Although not very rational, I often blamed the gear when my pictures disappointed me. Now I have one excuse less. This is of course a completely silly and irrational argument, but the more excuses you take out of the equation, the more the truly determining factor remains: the photographer.

The price to pay

Besides the obvious investment in a new camera body, you will also have to invest in glass that covers the full frame sensor. If you have a lot of APS-C glass already, this could mean that you need to change your entire lineup of glass. Further, if you are a photographer on the move, be prepared to carry more weight. The glass is more heavy.

Another thing you loose when you move to FF is the lack of cropping. The smaller sensor size on the APS-C means that a 200 mm lens is suddenly a 300 mm lens. Wonderful when you are a sports and wildlife photographer. So with FF you will need to buy longer lenses to get the same reach as APS-C. And I can assure you that long FF lenses are very expensive.

Should you shift to FF?

As you have maybe picked up from the above, I am not a strong advocate for FF cameras from a rational point of view. I think APS-C cameras are often wonderful (I love my Fuji X-T3) and with modern sensor and processor technology, the gap between FF and APS-C in my opinion has declined rapidly the recent years.

Further, what no camera manufacturer will tell you is this: You probably have a great camera! Most of the cameras that are out there in the market today are great, because they have been reviewed by thousands of bloggers and youtuber’s and passed the test. If they had not, the gear would not sell and the manufacturer would have pulled the product out of the market instantly. The transparency the internet has created is fantastic – and terrifying if your product is less-than-great. Camera manufacturers will blow new features and improvements out of proportions in the marketing of their latest model. They do not make any money if you buy used vintage glass on e-bay. So remember to scale down the excitement the next time you see a manufacturer marketing a new version of a auto focus system or image stabilization system. The previous camera was probably also great.

Finally, many of the photographs that are iconic today have been taken with camera gear that by today’s standards are classic, vintage, old-fashioned, out-of-date, dated, etc. So go figure: how come the best pictures have been taken with so primitive gear? The answer is: the photographer makes the difference. You.

Fan Ho or Henri Cartier-Bresson did not worry about their gear as far as I know. They worried about taking good pictures. And maybe we should learn from the masters. Happy shooting!

Questions and comments

Thank you for reading this far. I hope you found this blog useful. Questions and comments (and likes!) are more than welcome!

 

What is the focal plane in photography?

In this short blog I will give a non-scientific layman terms explanation of how I see the focal plane in photography. You can find more technical and advanced explanations out there, but this one focuses on what you need to know to make use of the focal plane.

A big umbrella

The focal plane is the plane where your lens and camera in combination has your subject in focus. So when you zoom in and out, different things will appear sharp in your viewfinder. If you take a picture of a person, you risk that the eyes are out of focus if you focus on the ears or the nose. Eyes are super important in portrait photography, and hence all portrait photographers and advanced auto focus systems make sure to zoom in on and detect the eyes. It is less of a problem if the nose or ear is slightly blurred or out of focus.

You can think of the focal plane as one big virtual umbrella that you push back and forth as you turn the focus ring on your lens. Exactly where the fabric from the umbrella touches the subject, the subject will be sharp.

In the picture below, you can see the glasses that I have put in focus are almost the only thing in focus. Both before and after the glasses, everything is out of focus:

Only one focal plane

It is important to understand that there is only one focal plane. No matter how advanced a camera you have and how much intelligence there is in the auto focus system of your camera, the physics and mechanics do not change. There is only one focal plane. You can only push one “umbrella” back and forth. You can do this with auto focus or manual focus, but there is only one.

I say this because when you see or read some of the camera manufacturers adds for the latest and greatest in auto focus technology, you get the impression that the intelligent systems have overcome all focus and sharpness issues. They have not, because they cannot fundamentally change the fact that only one plane can be in focus at a time.

There is some good news…

The good news – and what has saved me a lot of times – is that a little before and some after the focal plane, there is an additional area where the subject appears to be sharp. This is known as the depth of field. Good news is that you can increase (or decrease) the depth of field if you change the aperture. A small aperture (large f-stop number) gives large depth of field. In other words, there is some room for slack if you have a small aperture (large f-stop number like f/16) .

There is no such thing as a free lunch in photography. So the price for a small aperture is that it lets in very little light, which means you need to bump up either the ISO or leave the shutter open for a longer time or both. This introduces the risk of camera shake and subject blur, meaning your pictures will appear not-so-sharp anyway. So you have to strike a balance, find a compromise. General advice is hard to give in this regard, but try to start out with a middle-of-the-road aperture (say f/5.6) and work your way up or down until you find a good compromise.

Depth of field is also depends on your distance to the subject, so the closer you are to your subject, the more shallow the depth of field will be in absolute terms. This is what causes a lot of headache for for example flower photographers. This is where focus stacking comes into play, but that is the subject for a different blog.

Questions and comments

Thank you for reading this far. I hope you found this blog useful. Questions and comments (and likes!) are more than welcome!

 

Review: Nikon AF 24mm f/2.8 lens

Best VALUE landscape lens for Nikon F-mount?

Spoiler alert: Can I recommend this lens? Yes! But the recommendation comes with 3 caveats. Let me take you through these and then review this lens with sample pictures. It will not be a scientific review with pictures of brick walls showing how soft the lens is in the corners wide open, more a does-it-yield-great-pictures kind of approach.

 
Nikon Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 - a gem in the Nikkor vintage lineup
Nikon Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 – a gem in the Nikkor vintage lineup
Buy the right used version of this lens (1/3)

The lens comes in different versions. The older ones does not have distance information (hence the name 2.8 without the D) and also the manual focus ring is very thin and plastic-ish. You can see that my 50 mm lens to the right below is the right version. The one to the left is the version you should not buy:

The Nikon 50mm to the right with the wider manual focus ring.
The Nikon 50mm to the right with the wider manual focus ring.

To my knowledge there is no major changes done to the glass from 1985 to now, so if you don’t mind the flimsy focus ring and do not miss distance information, the older ones may work well for you – bonus is that you may find a very cheap older copy on e-bay or amazon.

There is no need to buy a brand new copy of this lens. My copy is around 35 years old, and everything works like a charm and the glass is great. But make sure you check the glass well before you buy.

Make sure you need this lens (2/3)

This is a prime lens. If you plan to have the holy trinity of zoom lenses then this lens may not be for you. The 24 mm sits right between where a zoom set of lenses would shift between normal zoom and ultra wide:

The holy trinity of zoom lenses.
The holy trinity of zoom lenses.

So you may find that the 24 mm replaces both the extremely wide zoom and the standard zoom, in which case you have saved a lot of money and weight. On the other hand, you may find that the 24 mm is an odd animal and that you prefer to use your zooms. In that case, the 24 mm probably never leaves your camera bag and is wasted. Here it comes down to personal preferences. All I ask is that you check if you think you really need this lens.

Make sure you have an AF motor (3/3)

The tin may say auto focus, the lens may say auto focus, but if you have an entry level Nikon camera, then the AF will not work. The reason you see below in the picture – Nikon D5600 on top, D7500 below:

The lens needs a motor in the camera body in order for auto focus to work.
The lens needs a motor in the camera body in order for auto focus to work.
The D7500 has an AF motor built into the body. The D5600 does not. You can see that the little split that drives the screwdriver AF mechanics is missing in the top camera. For cost saving reasons (I guess), Nikon has decided not to put AF motors in the D3x00 and D5x00 series cameras, so if you have one of these you are left with manual focus. Nothing wrong with manual focus, and maybe this will not stop you – I just point to this to avoid you get disappointed when you mount the lens for the first time.

You should also be aware that some copies have a problem with the rear glass (known as the CRC) which yields out-of-focus pictures very consistently. This could be what why this lens has received some lukewarm reviews from many respected reviewers. Make sure before you buy that your copy does not have this issue (or simply ask the seller to confirm this is not an issue). Best way to mitigate a mis-aligned CRC is to test the lens before you buy.

Specs and review

Ok, with those 3 caveats out of the way, lets look at what this lens is all about. It is an old construction, so no image stabilization and no silent AF motor built into the lens. Just good glass and a mechanical AF system.

The price I paid for my 35 year old copy was 220 EUR, but I am sure you can make a better deal if you look carefully and have a bit of patience. I bought my copy in Europe, but in my experience the prices in the US is much lower. So around 200 EUR for this gem of a lens! Notice that in this price range you also find the Samyang 14mm ultra wide lens, and it is also a great lens with lots of super positive reviews, but it is also more heavy, larger and the front glass is round, meaning that buying any kind of filter could prove to be costly. But the Samyang should definitely be on your short list of ultra wide lenses to consider, before you make your decision.

It is a relatively small lens that takes up the same space as the classic nifty fifty that I showed above. At f/2.8 it is not as fast as they come, but unless you shoot indoor in low light i doubt the 2.8 will be a problem for you. The advantage of the 2.8 is that the construction is light at 275 grams. The angle of view is 84 degrees and that is more than double the nifty fifty at 40 degrees. You can really tell the difference.

Color rendition is very much up to personal preference, but I have always been a fan of Nikon in this regard. The below pictures show a piece of art from the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art north of Copenhagen in Denmark, and the colors are reproduced exactly as I remember them. In my mind Nikons color rendition is spot on, and the 24 mm is no exception. 

At 50mm
At 50mm
At 24mm
At 24mm
I have not tested the bokeh of this lens in great detail, but the example below shows that both background separation and bokeh balls are more than approved. Maybe the bokeh is a bit oval, but unless you are an enthusiastic photographer, I doubt you will ever notice:
From the shop at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.
From the shop at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

The minimal focal distance is where this lens really shines. Have a look here what you can do with this lens, where the art piece to the left is sharp and close up:

 
From the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.
From the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

The minimal focal distance is 30 centimeters, and as you can see, you can get really close to your subject and still have it sharp:

 
From the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.
From the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.
From the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.
From the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

Another area where this lens shines how much you can include in the frame. Below an example where I have shot with both the 50 mm and the 24 mm. 

50mm
50mm
24mm
24mm

Wrap up

Ok, I hope the above gave you some idea about what the 24 mm lens from Nikon can do. I have not talked about distortion because these can be fixed in post, so why worry? The sharpness is great in my humble opinion, but I have only the pictures to judge from – no studies of brick walls under microscope. I think others have done that, and concluded this is a sharp lens!

So in conclusion, if you need a 24 mm in your lineup and f/2.8 does not scare you off, then the value for money you get with this little lens, makes it very easy for me to recommend this lens with the aforementioned caveats.

Nikkor 24mm, Nikon D750
Nikkor 24mm, Nikon D750
Nikkor 24mm, Nikon D750
Nikkor 24mm, Nikon D750
Video link

Related reading

Nikon AF-S 16-35mm ED 1:4G lens review

Nikon AF-S 70-200mm F2.8 G VR II lens review

Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.8 G lens review

 

What is the holy trinity of lenses in photography?

In photography the notion of a holy trinity of lenses refers to a set zoom of lenses that cover the full range of focal lengths, going from the ultra wide 10 mm to the long 200 mm. This is typically achieved by 3 lenses that cover each their area:

  • Extremely wide – 10-24 mm
  • Standard zoom – 24-70 mm
  • Long zoom – 70-200 mm
  • (and some also have the 200-500 mm, good for wildlife and sports photography)

The beauty of this lineup is that you do not need any other lenses!

The holy trinity of lenses illustrated

The series of lenses is illustrated in the graphics above. Notice that all the above refers to full frame equivalents, so if you are shooting on a cropped sensor, you need to apply the cropping factor to get to the right values (1.5 for DX or APS-C lenses), but the idea is the same: to have a few lenses to cover the full range of focal lenghts.

Not all photographers like zoom lenses, and there are several reasons for this, one being that they are expensive compared to prime lenses, another that their weight can be significant, especially in the long end of the scale and then some argue that prime lenses with fixed focal lengths are more sharp than zoom lenses. Those who agree to these arguments typically cover the focal range with prime lenses to achieve the same end.

As you can see in the graphics above, the angle of view changes as you move up through the focal range, starting at a whopping 130 degrees and a lens of 10 mm (far left), ending at 5 degrees or less at a super long lens (far right). Here the photographer working with primes will have to change lenses each time a new focal length is needed, and as the prime lens only cover a point on the scale illustrated above, you may risk that the prime lenses in your bag does not make the desired focal length available. In such cases a prime lens that typically is too short is used and the frame is afterwards cropped in post processing. Some also “zoom with their feet”, but you have to remember here that the angle of view does not change, no matter how much you zoom this way, so you will not get the same result (due to compression) as you did would with a zoom lens.

Questions and comments

Thank you for reading this far. I hope you found this blog useful. Questions and comments (and likes!) are more than welcome!