Review: Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner

Skeptical!

When it comes to robots that help out in the garden or in the house, I am a bit skeptical. Some years back I had one of the first robot vacuum cleaners that was mass produced, and to make a long story short, it was not a good experience. Also, I have two different robot lawn movers, and that is also a mixed bag of experiences.

Roborock S7
Not all members of your household will be equally happy to bid the Roborock S7 welcome to your household…

So maybe my excitement when it comes to the Roborock S7 is rooted in bad experience with other products. That is hard for me to say. But with that said, the rest of this blog will be one long praise of the Roborock S7, simply because I find that it is a brilliant product at a price point where it delivers value far beyond the retail price of 450 EUR (Denmark, Europe).

What is it?

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The promise on the tin is spot on.

The Roborock S7 is a vacuum cleaner robot, that also facilitates light cleaning with a wet cloth for hard surfaces. It is smart in the sense that it can see the surface it is cleaning, and for example when it cleans a carpet, the vacuum motor powers up to give max suction.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
Super systematic approach to vacuuming the room.

It is also very systematic. It first walks the perimeter of the room to find the size and direction, and after that starts cleaning both horizontally and vertically.  It is not like a lawn mower robot that takes pride in doing a random pattern – the Roborock S7 cleans in vertical and horizontal lines as depicted in the image above, taken from the app. You can also see where it has identified legs on the furniture and how it has walked around these obstacles in a circle, making sure to clean very close to these.

Is installation cumbersome?

Installation is easy. You download an app, and connect your smartphone to the WiFi network the Roborock provides. Then the Roborock uses the information provided by the app to log on to your Wifi (it needs the SSID and password) and after that the Roborock logs on to your WiFi network and you can now control the functions via the app. And you can follow the Roborock working via the app as the image above illustrates.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The water reservoir sits at the rear of the Roborock. You add water (and maybe cleaner) in the hole to the left. When the reservoir is mounted, the Roborock voice confirms that it is now mounted.

Another thing that makes the Roborock easy to work with is that every time you have done some change, like installing the water container at the rear of the Roborock, it will confirm with a computer voice what you have done. In the beginning I found this a bit annoying, but after a little while I started to appreciate the confirmation that the operation was successful.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The dust bin is not big, but if you run the Roborock regularly, then it is not an issue. The filter to the left sits on top of the dust bin and catches all the finer parts of the dust.

The dust bin is accessed via a lid on top of the Roborock. It is easy to pull out and clean, and maybe the only complaint that I have is that it is also relatively small, so it runs full easily. However, after running the Roborock in a room for the first time, the second time picks up very little extra dust. So my take is that if you let the Roborock clean on a regular basis, the small dust bin will not be an issue, simply because there is not much dust to collect.

Does it work in real life?

Yes. First of all, the battery life is good. It can cover a lot of square meters in a single charge. And you can follow the battery percentage left in the app. I did notice that it takes a bit of time for the Roborock to charge, but as it in my case returns to charge when the job is done, this is less of an issue. I have not cleaned areas bigger than 45 square meters at the same time.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
If you leave small items on the floor, the Roborock will find it and get it “in the machinery”. This will halt operations. Here it is a small cable that I had forgotten on the floor.

The same rules applies for the Roborock as for normal vacuum cleaning: the less items on the floor, the better the Roborock can get the job done. For large furniture like a bed, the Roborock does an excellent job cleaning around the legs very thoroughly. But of course, if you can remove obstacles and e.g. put dining chairs on the table prior to starting the Roborock, then you will get a better result. Also, as the Roborock is very systematic, it will find and pick-up anything that is left on the floor. In the image above, I forgot at small cable on the floor, and it got caught in the rotating parts of the Roborock. This halted operations, and I was notified via the app.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The Roborock does not take no for an answer, but keeps challenging “the boundaries”. Here it is working on a doorstep.

It also does cleaning edges really well. It does not only run along a wall or an edge, but constantly tries to “attack” the wall by driving slightly into it, meet its master, give up and go a bit out again, only to repeat the “attack” a bit further down the line. It is very convincing and makes sure the cleaning gets as close to the edges as possible. The Roborock has a small bumper so it can “feel” obstacles before it hits them, so no need to worry that these “attacks” will hurt your walls or furniture. It is gentle, but persistent.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The Roborock is low and easily cleans under a bed. Here it is cleaning in the kitchen.

The Roborock is low and easily finds it way under a table, a sofa and a bed. In my kitchen it is too tall to make it all the way under the kitchen cabinets, but it cleans some way under the cabinets (se image above) and does so well.

The little rotating arms at the side of the Roborock finds outside the main cleaning area and “throws” into the middle of the Roborock, that then picks it up there. These arms are prone to be tangled up in hairs and the like, but I find that cleaning them is easy.

Does the cleaning mop work?

Yes, if you don’t expect miracles, i.e. that it looks like you have been scrubbing the surface 100 times with a hard brush. That is not what happens.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The cleaning cloth at the bottom rear of the Roborock. The Roborock can lift and lower the plate with the cleaning cloth subject to the surface it detects.

The Roborock simply drags a wet cloth over the floor to wipe it clean. And it of course detects if the surface is a carpet, and lifts the mop.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The Roborock cleans using the mop also. It is not as good as you cleaning the floor with a mop, but it does add a nice touch to the experience of a clean room.

The water reservoir is intended to keep the cloth wet during cleaning, but I find it works the best if you start with a wet piece of cloth at the outset, so the water reservoir is only used for “topping up” the moist of the cloth.

How long time to clean?

The largest area I have asked the Roborock to clean is 39 square meters. It took the Roborock 72 minutes to complete the work and the battery level dropped to 53%, starting at fully charged.

Roborock S7 robot vacuum cleaner
The less obstacles, the better cleaning.

As you can ask the Roborock to go to work when you are not at home, the time required to clean your home may be less important. You can help the Roborock cleaning better by removing furniture from the floor. i.e. take small tables and chairs away from the floor by lifting them to higher ground, i.e. a sofa or a table. Pretty much like you would if you were to clean yourself. This will also make the Roborock work a bit faster, as it can get the job done in fewer uninterrupted sweeps across the floor.

Can I recommend the product?

Yes. We bought the Roborock 7 for the summer cottage, but we are seriously considering buying one for the home. It is that good. And it is priced very reasonably, so we are tempted. Think you will be as well.

Related reading

Review: Worx Landroid M700

 

 

Review: Garmin Varia RTL516 Rearview Radar and Taillight

Recommended

To make a long story short: Can I recommend this product? Yes.

Any downsides? Apart from maybe being a bit expensive, the biggest downside is that it is so interesting to watch what the radar tells you, that you may forget to look forward!

What is it?

The Garmin Varia RTL 516 is a taillight and rearview radar in combination. It hence makes you more visible, and also makes it possible for you to see what is coming from behind, without turning your head. This is particularly useful for triathletes that due to their position on the bike have a hard time looking over their shoulder, but it is also very useful for racing bikes, where the same applies, maybe to a lesser extent.

Garmin promises that it will detect cars as far as 140 meters away. I have not tested this claim, but I have tested the product in real life, and I can say that it works very well. I am actually a bit impressed. Even if I was driving on a bike path with parked cars between the bike path and the road, the radar was still able to “see” though the parked cars and identify cars approaching.

What is in the box?

Left to right: Documentation, the box, charging cable, the unit itself and mount solution.

Other than the unit itself, the box contains a charging cable, documentation and some options for mounting the unit to the saddle post. You’ll quickly find the relevant parts for your size and shape of saddle post.

Left to right: User guide, safety instruction, box, charging cable, the rear light itself, and then a range of options for mounting the unit.

Is installation easy?

Yes. You just need to find the right length of rubber band and the best shape for your saddle post, and then you can mount it on your bike in 30 seconds.

The light mounted on my coffee stomper just to illustrate how it works.
The light is locked into position with the twist-and-lock system we know from many other Garmin products. Different options for mounting on more or less aerodynamic saddle posts.

Is pairing easy?

Yes. I used it with my Fenix 5 and just asked my watch to scan for new Bluetooth units nearby. By holding down the on/off button for a few seconds, the radar also starts pairing and 10 seconds later the handshake was complete and the units linked.

Connecting the rear light radar to my Fenix 5 watch was really easy and took no time.
The user guide is wonderfully simple to follow. Lots of illustrations. Very little text.

Is the battery life ok?

Yes. Garmin promises 9 hours, and although I have not tested it to the limit, it is my clear impression that there will be plenty of power on a full charge for most cyclists. Only if you cannot charge between rides, I would imagine the battery could run out. On other news, I was a bit disappointed to see that the charging cable – here in 2022 where EU has decided it is the future standard – is not USB-C.

Charging the unit with the supplied cable. Unfortunately it is not USB-C, but just mini USB.

How is it to use?

I tested the unit on a Fenix 5 watch, and the way it works is that a little bar appears to the right in the screen. It is green when no one is approaching and turns amber and red, subject to how fast and how close those approaching are.

The bar to the right is the radars graphical zone. Here it shows that there are no cars or objects approaching and hence it is colored green = no danger.

Cars approaching are illustrated as little dots that move from the bottom of the bar to the top as they approach. Several dots will appear if you’ve got several cars approaching. And it works really well and I am impressed how it is able to distinguish between objects that you just pass (like a parked car) and objects that are approaching. It is so fascinating to watch, that you may forget entirely to look forward! So be cautious when you start using it!

In the best of worlds I would have had a Garmin product to sit on my handlebar so I would be able to see the graphics easily. But I found that when danger really was high, the Fenix 5 watch vibrated just a bit, to draw my attention to the radar. It works really well, but of course can be a bit stressful until you get used to it.

Conclusion

As you probably have guessed by now, I find this to be a great product, and an invention that potentially could save lives in the traffic. It is a bit expensive, but it works really well and considering what damage it potentially can avoid, I really wished that more cyclists would start using this product.

 

Review: TTArtisan 50mm APS-C f/0.95 lens for the Sony e-mount

Fast!

A lens at f/1.4 or f/1.2 I consider to be extremely fast, but when TTArtisan kindly sent me this lens for review, I learned that even faster lenses exist! An maximum aperture at f/0.95 enables you to isolate your subject from the background to an extreme degree! As an example: if you shoot at the minimum focus distance of 50 centimeters on a Sony a6500, the depth of field is less than 0.4 cm!! You really have to look twice to make sure your subject is in focus!

Beautiful bokeh.
Beautiful bokeh.

No-nonsense

The lens is all back-to-basics and no-nonsense: No autofocus, no vibration reduction and no CPU contacts!  It is only metal and glass that in total makes your camera 411 grams heavier. But on the other hand it does not make your wallet that much lighter, as it retails for around 220 USD, which is a very budget friendly lens.

It comes with the Sony e-mount that fits Sony’s mirrorless cameras, both full frame and APS-C. You can mount the lens on a full frame camera as I did for this test, and to my surprise I found that it did cover the entire full frame with only little vignetting, but the sharpness in the corners was so bad, that I quickly set-up my A7Rii to crop the image size down to APS-C. In doing so, the crop factor turns the lens into 75mm FF equivalent.

The TTArtisan lens on the Sony A7R2.
The TTArtisan lens on the Sony A7R2.

The lens is approximately 6 cm tall and 6 cm in diameter, and hence a few millimeters smaller than the e-mount itself, so I think it will look natural on all e-mount cameras, both full frame and APS-C.

The filter thread size is 58mm and allows you to mount both the metal lens cap that comes with the lens, and whatever filters you may wish. Unfortunately the lens does not have a rubber gasket around the lens mount, and hence you need to be careful to protect your camera from both water and dust.

The TTArtisan lens on the Sony A7R2.
The TTArtisan lens on the Sony A7R2.
The markings are engraved into the aluminium
The markings are not painted, but engraved into the aluminium. Built to last.

There are 10 slightly rounded aperture blades, and you can stop the lens down to f/16 as the smallest aperture, and at the other end go wild with f/0.95!! In the image above you can also see the green color in the light reflected in the front glass – that is the coating at work to counter flare.

Manual focus is controlled with a nice wide and well dampened focus throw, that turns roughly 100 degrees. I could have wished for a longer throw, especially when shooting wide open, but you’ll get used to it. The focus peaking highlights on my Sony A7Rii is brilliant aid to focus manually. And when I really want to nail focus: the ability to zoom in, in the viewfinder,  comes really handy!

The vertical bars that you see on the focus throw above is not painted on the lens, but recess that has been milled out in the aluminum! This underlines the solid built quality of the lens. The distance is shown both in meters and feet, and I even found a DOF scale closest to the camera – not many use those this day and age, but to me it underlines that this lens is back to basics!

The aperture ring is rather narrow and sits just below the red dot you see in the picture above. It is also nicely dampened, but in addition the aperture ring has very soft clicks. It is also possible to position the blades between two clicks if that is to your liking. With my eye in the viewfinder, I found the aperture ring a bit difficult for my fingers to find, but you get used to it. However, a little wider aperture ring would have been nice.

So all in all a very solid built lens – all metal, all glass, and absolutely no electronics!

Sharpness

I am only too aware that many consider an MTF chart as boring as watching paint dry! But you can learn a lot about a lens studying an MTF chart, and it reveals that when wide open (fmax) the resolution is below what I would normally consider acceptable (from 0.6 to 0.7 and upwards).

The MTF chart for the TTArtisan lens.
The MTF chart for the TTArtisan lens.

Now, had this been the corner sharpness, it would have been less of an issue, as most really only care about the center sharpness in real life, but here the lens is soft in the center wide open. It does get better fast when you stop down, but I did find that going faster than f/1.1 made the center of the frame so soft that I started noticing.

Left f/8, right wide open.
Left f/8, right wide open.

In the image above, I have zoomed in 200% with f/8 to the left and wide open to the right. I think you can see the difference in sharpness immediately.

Sometimes a bit of softness is not all that bad, especially if you shoot portraits, but for my style of shooting (landscapes, nature), the softness is an issue, and I did find that due to the softness, I only really used the lens from around f/1.2 and onwards. But mind you that it still is a very fast lens!

Aberrations

If you like me shoot very often in high contrast situations, then aberrations can be a real pain, as it gives colors of green and purple that can ruin an image or at least give more work in post processing.

Chromatic aberrations.
Chromatic aberrations.

In the image above, both both zoomed in at the center of the frame, you can see that wide open to the right, there is a green tint to the black areas to the right of the mouse. To the left, at f/8, all is grey as it should be. So wide open, this lens suffers from significant amounts of aberrations. You can also see the graphics in front of the mouse has both a green and pink tint in the image to the right. And finally also the color rendition suffers from the aberrations – look at the blue color, it is clearly more “mint” to the right than to the left.

Chromatic aberrations.
Chromatic aberrations.

In the example above, notice the green line at the top edge of the book to the right. It is significant.

Again, this problem seems to be reduced when stopped down to f/8, but if you plan to use this lens in a high contrast scene, for example sunlight behind a model, you will likely find that high contrast areas has a green tint to it.

Distortion and vignetting

The lens has a bit of distortion, but it is so little that I doubt you will notice unless you have some dominating straight lines in your image.

Wide open the lens does show a bit of vignetting, but it quickly disappears as you stop down.

Distortion corrected in Lightroom.
Distortion corrected in Lightroom.

Just to give you an impression of the distortion and the vignetting, above in Lightroom I have pulled the slides to correct for both, and as you may be able to see, distortion is at +8 and vignetting at +28. Also notice how the sides of the image has white “gaps” as a consequence of the correction. Obviously, this image also needs to be cropped.

It is an easy fix in Lightroom, so I do not normally consider distortion and vignetting a problem in general. Here it is a bit more cumbersome, as the lens has no CPU contacts, and Lightroom does not know which lens it is and cannot help with applying the corrections automatically. But for most scenes and situations, I doubt you will ever notice the vignetting and distortion this lens has.

Flare control

Green dots of flare.
Green dots of flare.

As far as I can tell, this lens as good flare control. In the image above, I have tried to stress the lens with the sharp light from my iPhone, and all the flare I could produce was the small green dots you see towards the bottom right corner.

Flare!
Flare!

If I really go to extremes and let the light hit the lens almost vertically, then you get the result above, but it is more to see how the lens reacted. If you use a lens hood, then this angle of light will not hit the lens. So if you use a lens hood, I think that you will find that flare is well controlled in this lens.

Focus breathing

This lens suffers from focus breathing and to a significant degree. Actually so much that I think videographers will stay clear of it. As a photographer, I find this to be less of an issue.

Bokeh and sun stars

Bokeh is perhaps a bit into the personal preference territory. Some see “nervous bokeh” and “onion rings” where others just see out of focus areas. And it is probably mainly amongst photographers that bokeh is “a thing”.

Beautiful bokeh.
Beautiful bokeh.

Shooting with this lens for a few weeks now, I can say that I really like the bokeh it produces, both wide open when the blades are not engaged, and stopped down then the 10 slightly rounded aperture blades start to kick in.

Bokeh balls.
Bokeh balls.

Wide open, as you would expect, nice round shapes.

Bokeh balls stopped down.
Bokeh balls stopped down.

Stopped down a bit, you start to notice the shape of the aperture blades if you look carefully, but with 10 rounded blades, the shape still looks nice to me.

Sunstars.
Sunstars.

And finally stopped all the way down to f/16, the lens produces sun stars that to me look absolutely ok. It is not as beautiful sun stars as a lens with 100% straight blades can produce, but a very good compromise between quality of the sun stars and the bokeh.

 

Conclusion

The first thing to notice about this lens is it’s price bracket – 220 USD. And I think the lens performance has to be viewed in that light, and as such I think it is unfair at that price point to expect auto focus or vibration reduction, although I for completeness will list them as cons in the summary below.

I would have loved to see some CPU contract to help me get EXIF information into Lightroom, but it seems to me the TTArtisan philosophy is to stay clear of any electronics, and just produce solid built glass that will last. And when you hold this lens in your hand, you are clearly left with the impression that it will last – a simple construction, all metal, all glass, well built and with no electronics.

There are two areas where I struggle with this lens.

One is the softness and the aberrations wide open. I find that in real life I only use the lens from around f/1.4 and onwards, and the space from f/0.95 to /f1.4 is simply too bad for me to usable. In other words, the super fast lens is for me more on paper and in the specs sheet, than it is in real life. It is a very usable lens stopped down a bit, but not wide open. So if you got attracted to this lens due to its crazy fast aperture, then I caution you to make sure the softness and the aberrations in the wide end is acceptable to you.

The other is the aberrations throughout the aperture range. It is there, and it is noticeable in high contrast scenes. If you don’t shoot much in high contrast, then this may not be an issue for you, but I do, and I find it annoying to spend time in Lightroom, removing purple and green colors where light meets darkness.

If you can live with the above two, then this lens is a steal. A fast “f/1.4 lens” for your APS-C camera that will not break the bank. It is sharp and with good contrast if you stay clear of shooting wide open. So if you can accept that and you don’t mind manual focus, then this lens should definitely be on your short list of nifty-fifty primes for your Sony APS-C camera.

You can find a small sample if images shot with this lens here, if you want to see better resolution samples than what is in this blog.

Pro
– Price / value for money
– Build quality
– Fast lens (f/0.95)
– Bokeh
– Sun stars stopped down
– Sharpness/contrast stopped down
– Vignetting/distortion not too bad
– Flare control

Cons
– Chromatic aberrations
– Lack of CPU contacts (no EXIF info)
– Relatively short focus throw for an all manual lens
– No auto focus (or VR)
– Sharpness and contrast wide open
– Focus breathing
– No weather sealing

Related reading

Review: TTArtisan 50mm f/1.2 lens for the Nikon APS-C Z-mount

Review: Sony RX100 M3 = value-for-money!

Video link