What camera should you buy when on a budget?

Photography on a budget

Photography gear is expensive. Maybe not as expensive as gear for playing golf, but close. The list of gear required seems endless (camera, lenses, bags, straps, grips, light, flashes, tripods, backdrops, stands, etc) and the photography gear industry keeps pushing new products on the markets that is better that the previous generation; higher, faster, longer…

All this meets your limited budget. Unless you are Rockefeller or one of the original investors in Apple, you – like me – is on a limited budget to optimize within. But do not despair – there is hope. The good news is that you can get started with good gear without breaking the bank. All it takes is a bit of thinking on your side – and a few tips from someone who has learned to optimize the hard way (that would be me!).

A lot of time we are driven by emotions: it feels really good to unbox a brand new piece of camera equipment and know that no one before you has used this gear. And flashing the latest camera model on the local cafe while sipping a cafe latte may feel great, but it comes at a price. So if you want to get the max bang for your buck, you will need to think more and feel less. It is not sexy. But being on a budget seldom is.

Know yourself

This is probably as boring as it gets, but it is my best advice: know yourself as a photographer. When I was brand new to photography, I was really struggling to understand what type of photography I would be doing, i.e. would it be: Friends and family, portraits, landscapes, astro photography, still life, products, lay flats, events (weddings, birthdays), sports and action, wildlife, video, etc

If you are new to photography, you may be struggling to figure out what you will be shooting. I did. I took a major detour around birds photography, including buying a long and very expensive lens, before I realized that this was not for me. I was not good at it, and most importantly: I did not enjoy it.

The reason why it is important to know what you will be shooting is that it drives the requirements to the gear. If you are shooting sports and wildlife and other fast moving subjects, then auto focus and frames per second is ABSOLUTELY vital. If you are shooting landscapes, you probably could not care less. So paying for gear that has great auto focus capability when you are a landscape photographer is money out the window. You are paying for functionality you do not need. You want to spend your money on functions and features that are important to you.

So write down a list of things that are important to youAnd make the list prioritized. What can you cave in on, i.e. what is only nice to have? What is absolutely need-to-have? Try lending or borrowing gear aimed at a specific type of photography, and see if it works for you.

Buy dated

Have you ever noticed that from time to time, the car producers suddenly seem to be very friendly and sell you their cars with lots of extras at almost no additional costs? Are they being friendly? Of course not, it is business as usual. They have a new model coming. Everybody knows it. The car reviewers have already been test driving the new model, you have probably been reading about it and everybody wants the new version with the new improved design and features. But what about the car factory? They still produce the old car for some time while this is going on – how are they to continue to sell a model that everybody knows is about to be replaced with a new one? The answer is to pump the last copies of the old version that leaves the factory with lots of extras, and sell them at the same price as before. So you can make a good deal, provided the prestige of having the latest model is not your thing.

When you are on a budget, you cannot afford prestige. It is as simple as that. The sooner you accept this fact, the faster you can start to optimize your budget. Yes, the manufacturers will argue that the latest version of their camera now shoots x+2 frames per second, where the previous version “only” shot x. And they are right. It is an improvement. But check the list of things that are important to you: is the improved features important to you?

The camera manufacturers know that a lot will simply buy the latest version of their camera by default – wealthy enthusiasts, prosumers and professionals that can optimize their workflow with the improved features. So they set the intro price to skim the market. This is not where you want to be, if you are on a budget. Wait.  The price will drop, both on the new version and on the previous. Not to mention the version 2 or 3 generations back.

This brings me to the second advice I have for you on a budget: never buy the latest version – always buy dated. Go as far back as you can in terms of versions, looking at the list of things that are important to you. Be careful not to cave in on your requirements – you will regret it, but try to see if there is an (older) camera model that meets your requirements still. You will save a lot of money, and still get what you are after.

Buy used

Buying used is not fun in my opinion – I love the unboxing of something brand new and the feeling that I touch something (almost) as the first in the world. But it is an expensive feeling to say the least!

Buying used also introduces a risk, that the goods you get are not in perfect condition. You may not know the history of what you are buying – has the camera or lens had a rough life? How many years are left in the gear when you get it? Is there a scratch in the lens or maybe fungus? And so on. But if you buy via your local photo shop (yes, they often have used gear along with brand new gear) or buy via the big e-channels like e-bay and amazon, then you have options to make complaints and return the goods if you are not satisfied with your purchase. Check the specific conditions in your case. And go for the vendors that have good ratings – they probably want to continue to have good ratings, i.e. they don’t want you to be an unhappy customer.

So buying used via a “serious” channel mitigates the risk of buying used gear. That said, my third advice to you on a budget is: buy used if at all possible. I have bought MANY used vintage lenses on e-bay and amazon, and trust me, you will get the hang of it after a few purchase. I find that especially lenses and vintage lenses are a great way to save money – you get lenses of a quality you could never afford from new, if you look carefully you will get a lens that is as good as it was when it was brand new and you can probably later sell the lens via e-bay again, should you grow tired of it.

Garage sales or flee markets is another source of used gear. The advantage here is that you are not necessarily dealing with a professional salesperson, i.e. they do not know the true value of the gear they are selling. I have heard of many who have bought vintage lenses for a few dollars, pretending that they were interested in the camera the the lens sat on! There are made millions of copies of great lenses the last 50-60 years and many of those probably sit in a garage sale or flea market somewhere, waiting for you to pick it up!

Study the market

Dad jokes aside, study the market to see if you can find the sweet spot. All things being equal, the more you invest, the better gear you most likely will get, but the investment has diminishing returns. It is like when the farmer adds fertilizer to the soil – at some point the effect starts to decline. In the beginning you will get a lot of extra for adding a dollar more, after adding many dollars, an additional dollar has little effect. That is probably why there are more Volkswagen than Bentleys out there.

Speaking of studying the market, if you have zoomed in on a certain product that you consider buying, make sure to study reviews. And not just one or two. Study MANY reviews. Both those on Youtube and those in writing. You will be surprised how many opinions there are out there. And how much peoples opinion differ – probably because their list of priorities differ. And you will quickly learn which channels are systematic and serious and which are more entertaining. So take your time to study the market and use many sources. No hasty decisions – there will be a new black Friday coming up. Informed decisions are the best.

What is available today is amazing!

You may feel that you are missing out on a lot of new features like faster auto focus, more megapixels and so on. But find comfort in the fact that almost all the picture that are famous today (like the ones from Henri Cartier-Bresson) were taken with cameras and gear that is nowhere near the technical capabilities of a 3-4 year old camera on the market today. So unless you are in the photography game for technical reasons and like to get hold of all the engineering behind the modern camera, you will find that you can take some absolutely astonishing and great pictures with a 5 or even 10 years old camera. If you don’t believe me, try googling for blogs about the Nikon D700. I have never owned such a camera, but those who have absolutely love it and often claim that – if they have sold it – it was the best camera they ever had and that they regret to have sold it every day since.

What no camera manufacturer will ever tell you, and most youtubers seldom, is this: all the cameras on the market today are good cameras! Why? If a really bad camera came out, the word would spread on social media with lightening speed, and sales would decline almost immediately. So if a camera manages to “hang in there” and get a crowd of happy users, it is probably because it is not doing too bad!

Nikon D5600
The Nikon D5600. A really good APS-C camera that I can recommend to anyone that is new to photography.

So find comfort in the fact that the camera that you may already have is not so bad at all! Also, the speed by which product manufacturers push new models to the market has increased dramatically over the last 10 years, so only those that do reviews of cameras and maybe professionals that really need the latest features of a new camera to optimize their workflow, have a rational need for the latest generation of a camera. The rest of us are just will do fine with a camera that is 2-3 years old, like the Nikon D5600 in the picture above. It is a DSLR (not mirrorless), it is not the latest and greatest and it has been around for some time. But it is a very solid performer, you can get one at a very fair price (especially used) and it will probably serve you for many years with good pictures. You can see the conclusion from the dpreview of the D5600

Try before you buy

You will be surprised how much you can learn about a camera just holding it and using it for a few minutes. It tells a lot more than reading many reviews, although I also recommend you do that.

So if at all possible, see if you can get your hands on the gear you want to buy without buying it. See if your local camera store, friends / family or the camera club / association in your area can give you hands-on access to whatever you are in the market for. In my experience, ergonomics is one of the areas that matter the most after you have owned the camera for a while. Image quality is of course king, but if you don’t like the ergonomics or the viewfinder is annoying or the camera too heavy, then this will bug you more and more as time progresses.

No matter how many reviews you study, the moment of truth is when you start to use a camera or a lens or a tripod or whatever. That is when you know it is the right one for you. Especially gear where ergonomics is vital is difficult to assess based on a written review or a Youtube video.

Sell your old gear if not in use

When you have been into photography for a little while, you probably will find that there is some gear you use all the time, and some gear less so. And maybe even some gear that you do not use at all! Yes, it happens. I know it is not a nice feeling to “sell an old friend”, but if that old friend has been lying around for months without being used, maybe it is time to say goodbye? And make some other photographer a happy with a good purchase? And give you (partial) funding for a new investment?

If you have some gear that you think you are not using, but not ready to let go of, put it in a dedicated box, write on the box when you did so and let time pass. If you after say 6 months find that you have never opened the box or missed the gear in the box – maybe that is then the time to let go of the content of the box?

I recently sold my Nikon D5600. It was my first DSLR. It was not a nice process to initiate. But a few weeks after the sale, it actually felt good. The “camera in the drawer” was actually a mental burden, and now I am happy to know that it has found good use with a new owner.

If all of us gets the “gear in the drawer” out on amazon or e-bay, then we also contribute to the options available for all us shooting on a budget. So in my mind it makes a lot of sense to sell the gear you don’t use, both for the benefit of you personally and the photo community.

See what you already got in a new light!

I have said this many times in some of the videos on my channel, but I am happy to repeat it here: study the manual of your gear! I know it is boring and not many do it, but you may find that the gear you already got has the features you think you are missing! You can also try to study reviews of the camera and lenses you have – you may learn something new about your gear and see what you have from a new angle! Many cameras can do much more than the average user knows about – often we just get a “drivers license”, i.e. a minimum skill set to operate the camera, but it can do so much more than that. So if you miss something like bulb mode or the like, start out with the manual!

Related reading

Should you buy a fast lens or not?

Which Nikon lens type should you buy?

Nikon D5600: How to use manual exposure?

You select manual mode on the mode dial top of the camera, right next to the right of the viewfinder. Turn the dial to position (M) for manual mode:

Manual exposure

Make sure the pivoting LCD screen is facing outwards (i.e. not towards the camera body) and press the Info button located right next to the viewfinder and just above the LCD screen. This should give you a picture with an M top left, and the shutter speed, aperture and ISO values shown (your picture may be different, but the information content should be the same):

Here the shutter speed is 1/160th of a second, the aperture is f/5 and the ISO is at 3200

Shutter speed

The command dial is located on the camera top right. The command dial controls the shutter speed – turning the dial increases and decreases the shutter speed. The slowest shutter speed is 30 seconds, after that follows bulb and time mode (will not be addressed here). The fastest shutter speed is 1/4000th second. To avoid camera shake, be careful not to use a shutter speed slower than 1/80th of a second, unless the camera is mounted on a tripod (or you have a very steady hand!).

Aperture

Just in front of the main dial, a smaller button is located:

Manual exposure

You can see the graphics is +/- and also a circle illustrating a shutter:

Manual exposure  Nikon D5600

This button, when pressed down, alters the effect of the command dial, so that instead of controlling exposure compensation, it changes the aperture. So hold down the +/- button while turning the main dial, and this changes the aperture. The aperture values are subject to the lens mounted, but typically range from f/1.8 to f/22 or thereabout. The larger the number (the f-stop), the smaller the aperture and the less light is let in by the lens.

ISO (sensor sensitivity)

Finally, to change the ISO setting, find the “Fn” button on the front left of the camera. Pressing this button while turning the command dial changes the ISO value, the same way holding down the +/- button did for aperture:

Manual exposure
The Fn (function) button is located on the front left of the camera.

You can also change the ISO setting using menus: press the information button (i) as shown here, and a menu appears on the LCD screen:

Manual exposure  Nikon D5600

In the top right corner is the ISO value. Use the multi selector (the large round button just below the (i) button) to move the cursor to the top rightmost cell in the screen. It says “iso” with small letters in the bar just above the cell. In the picture above, the ISO is set to 250. Place the cursor over the ISO cell and push the center of the multi selector (ok) and the ISO selection screen appears. Using the multi selector again, the cursor can be moved to the new ISO value, ok pressed and the ISO value is changed.

Auto ISO sensitivity control

There is an option to let the camera (within boundaries) select the ISO value itself, in order to arrive at a properly exposed picture, given the aperture and shutter speed selected by you. It is not a perfect solution in all cases, but it can be a great aid in the beginning especially, in order to avoid over- or under exposed pictures. And it enables you to focus on one thing less in the beginning of your work with shooting in manual mode.

To switch on Auto ISO, press the “menu” button located top left on the back side of the D5600 camera body. Using the command dial (the big round button middle right), scroll down to the so called shooting menu. The shooting menu has a green icon that looks like a camera viewed from the front. Press the right hand side of the command dial to enter the shooting menu, and press the bottom side of the command dial to scroll down to the “ISO sensitivity settings” menu:

Manual exposure  Nikon D5600

Press the center of the command dial (ok) to select the ISO sensitivity settings. In this menu you can switch the Auto ISO sensitivity on and off, set the maximum allowed ISO sensitivity setting (high values gives grainy pictures), set the minimum shutter speed and select the ISO sensitivity.

Manual exposure  Nikon D5600
Auto ISO sensitivity control…

The minimum ISO value for the Nikon D5600 is 100 – this is a value determined by the nature of the sensor in the camera, and cannot be changed via camera setting.

Notice that when Auto ISO is on, the camera ignores the ISO sensitivity value you have chosen. Only when you switch the Auto ISO off, the ISO setting chosen by you will be used by the camera.

Getting the exposure right

When shooting in manual mode (and Auto ISO is not on), it is very easy to select aperture and shutter speed values that give an over- or underexposed picture. In the bottom of the viewfinder, and also when you press the “info” button, there is a light meter indicating if the picture will be over- or underexposed:

-│ – – │ – – 0  – -│ – – │ +

<————│

If the arrow below the meter points to the left, then the picture will be underexposed. This is the case in the example shown above. If the arrow points to the right the picture will be overexposed, as the picture below illustrates:

Manual exposure  Nikon D5600
The markings to the right of the zero shows the image is over exposed…

Only if there is no arrow visible, the picture will be exposed just right. Minor deviations can be fixed in post, only to some extend for JPG files, more so when shooting in Raw format, but the easiest is to get the exposure right in camera.

Video link

Related reading

Nikon D5600: Still a good buy as an entry level camera in 2021?

Which enthusiast Nikon DSLR to choose?

Nikon D750: Why I chose the D750 for photography

Introduction

In this post I will be looking at Nikon’s enthusiast DSLR camera line up to explain why I ended up buying the D750 after owning the D5600 for a year or so. I look at digital cameras here – film is another story! 

If you want to get to know the Nikon camera lineup, this wiki page gives a good overview, both in terms of available models and which were released when.

This post is intended to give you inspiration if you are to buy a Nikon camera. Your decision criteria and personal preferences are probably different from mine. So most likely you will end up making a different decision than me, or arrive at the same decision but for different reasons. So please read this post in that context.

Nikon D5600 and D3400

The 3×00 series is the entry level model whereas the 5×00 is considered a notch above that but still in the entry level end of the Nikon scale. I have no experience with the D3x00 but I would imagine it is a budget friendly (scaled down) version of the D5x00 with very much the same look and feel. My D5600 is solid workhorse that has served me well and I only sold it because I moved to full frame. 

The reason why I moved away from the 3×00/5×00 series is the lack of a in-body auto focus (AF) motor. Nikon (and Sony) have been around for ages, and their legacy gives access to a wide range of vintage glass that can be bought for a fraction of the prices of new glass. However, many of these lenses either have manual focus or focus via a screwdriver setup, where a small motor driven pin in the camera body as shown here:

The AF motor pin.
The AF motor pin.

It drives the focus mechanism in the lens. I absolutely love the low prices and high quality of vintage Nikkor glass in combination with the comfort of auto focus – the D3x00/D5x00 series were no longer an option for me. 

Nikon D7500

The need for an in-body AF motor literally drove me to the 7×00 series. These APS-C sensor cameras have many fans, and especially when reading blog comments from D7100 and D7200 owners, these cameras apparently serve their owners very well. And both used and new, these cameras are close to unbeatable when it comes to the price/performance ratio – a steal. 

Despite these two strong candidates, I went for the D7500 – the camera that the internet loves to hate, as Steve Perry says in his review of the camera. I absolutely loved it – super fast frames per second, stunning low light performance, tilt screen, nice LCD and a deep grip. I felt I got a scaled down version of the D500 for a bargain.

The Nikon D7500.
The Nikon D7500.

I would probably have owned and used the D7500 today had it not been for an unfortunate accident where I dipped the camera in salt water to save myself from falling. That taught me always wear a camera strap when out and about, but it also meant that my D7500 was ruined in a cannot-be-saved way (salt water simply eats the thin metal in the electronics inside the camera). So I went back to my D5600 for a while, saving money and contemplating my next move.

Cropped versus full-frame

In the photo community on social media the debate regarding full frame versus cropped sensors (APS-C) is probably one of the oldest around. And it goes on and on. I think that over the years the APS-C sensors have moved closer and closer to the full frame sensors in terms of performance, and many will claim that the differences are small if visible at all. I have no ambition to add to this discussion.

I can see that many – also professional – wildlife photographers prefer the APS-C sensor due to the crop factor. So it is a matter of horses for courses – you cannot say that full frame is this A-team and APS-C is the B-team. It is more complicated than that. A Nikon D500 (APS-C) is by many considered more professional grade than the full frame Nikon D610.  

So all this just to say that I eventually went for a full frame model simply because I was curious! I wanted to experience what a full frame camera could do when compared to an APS-C. Is it rational and clear thinking to go for full frame just because you are curious? No, absolutely not. But it is my honest answer, and the reason why you should consult your own personal preferences when making a purchase decision. You can read more here about the arguments for shifting from APS-C to full frame.

The Nikon D750

After deciding to go for a full frame Nikon DSLR camera body, it was really down to 4 different models: the D610, D750, D810 and D850. And before I started to look at reviews, I started with the specs and prices – budget is important to me. In February 2019, this is what a simple table of comparison looked like:

The models are across, starting with the D610 and ending with the D850. In the bottom the last 3 lines gives the prices in Euro, the increase going from one model to the next and finally the index comparing towards the D610. So for example, the D850 is 3 times as expensive as the D610, and you will have to raise your budget by 26% if you decide to go for the D810 over the D750.

Let me start with the easy part: the D850. This one is undoubtedly the DSLR of my dreams, but also way out of my league budget wise. It has an impressive 45 mp sensor and an Expeed 5 processor, so I have every reason to believe that this is as good as it gets. But but, budget budget.

In the other end of the scale is the D610 which is much closer to my budget and what I intend to spend. However, having seen what the modern Expeed processor did in the D7500 camera, I wanted to go for the most modern Expeed processor possible, and here the D750 had an advantage (as marked in the lower red circle). Also, as I often shoot low light, the ISO performance of the D750 also seemed very attractive (top red circle). Of course you should buy as cheap as possible, but on the other hand it is silly spending 800 EUR on a camera body and then missing the features of a 300 EUR more expensive body – then I think it is better to save for a little longer and then go for the better model.

So the final choice was between the D750 and the D810. After going in circles for weeks, I finally decided that I could not defend the need for a 36 mp sensor – it is way more than what I need. Most of my pictures are for social media and the like and are condensed/reduced in resolution to a level where 24 mp is more than sufficient.  

With this in the back of my head, I started to study reviews of the Nikon D750, and especially two videos caught my attention. The first one is a professional wedding photographer (“this one will shoot in the dark”). The second one is a video from Seattle Museum of flight.  Of course I read many more reviews of the D750 like the one from Techradar.

And piling all this together, I found the choice of the D750 an easy one. So I ended up buying the D750, and I am a happy camper!

Afterthought

Here in 2023, I still have my Nikon D750. I also have a Nikon D4, a Nikon Z6ii and a Nikon D700. But I hold on to the D750. It is just a workhorse that does exactly what you ask it to.

It is still my preferred camera for a product shoot, simply because it is so easy to work with. I once read in a review of the car BMW 320 that the reviewer liked the care more and more, the more he drove in it, and that one of the reasons was that every dial and button sat exactly where he wanted them to. There was no strange design features or experimentations going on here – every button and dial was functional and tested in detail. My feeling about the D750 is exactly the same: it is a workhorse that does what you tell it to. The shooting experience is great!

The D750 does not have the heavy sound or feel of say a professional grade Nikon D4, in fact, some will say it feels a little too light and made of too much plastic. That may well be, but if you judge the camera on it’s usability, features and output, I think you will find that it is an all round DSLR that is hard to beat. Add to that the massive lineup of used / vintage f-mount glass that can be mounted on the D750 and you have a very capable package that is hard to beat when it comes to price / performance.

I have several Z-mount lenses and a Nikon Z6ii. The Z-mount glass is better than the F-mount, I think that is evident when you read reviews and see it for yourself. The question is if you need the better technical performance from the Z-mount glass? It is a pleasure to work with the Z-mount glass, but to be honest, I think most photographers really don’t need the additional performance.

You could of course go for  the Nikon Z6ii, which is the mirrorless competitor to the Nikon D750, and then mount F-mount glass on the Z6ii using a FTZ adapter. But than all your AF glass with mechanical autofocus would be manual focus, as the Z6ii has no focus motor!

The benefit of a mirrorless camera is eg. a silent camera with no mirror flicking and the focus peaking highlights (my full list of  mirrorless advantages is here). And if this is important to you, the Z6ii may be an alternative to consider. But again, if you look at the price / performance, I think you will find that the D750 is an option that is hard to beat. The mirrorless features comes at a high price.

My only reservation is this: If you want a hybrid camera, the video capabilities of the Nikon D750 shows the age of the camera (no 4K). But for photography it is still a very capable camera.

 

Shopping link

Affiliate link to the Nikon D750 (body only).

Related reading

Nikon D750: Is it still relevant in 2021?

Nikon D750: The replacement is here! Nikon D780

Video link