Which Nikon camera body to choose in the 24MP range?

Here at the brink of 2021, Nikon offers the enthusiast photographer more options than ever before. This is both wonderful and frustrating, as the obvious choice seems harder to find as the number of options increases. And there are no simple answers unfortunately, it all seems to come back to the classic counter question: “it depends…”. In this post I will try to distill the  options Nikon offers in the 24MP range – typically aimed at the serious enthusiast and/or the freelance photographer.

On my YouTube channel I am a big ambassador for the Nikon D700, a classic and legendary DSLR that although “only” offering 12MP is probably one of the best DSLRs ever made for the enthusiast photographer. As it is no longer in production, it is only available used for around 400 EUR. This camera in terms of value is probably one of the best cameras for the enthusiast. However, many are not comfortable with the 12MP “only” and it seems like the camera producers center around 24MP as the sensor resolution for enthusiasts. If we go up higher to 48MP as found in the D850 or the Z7, then we are more into the professional segment, so in this post I will stick to the Z6, D750 and the D780 as they are all in the 24MP range.

The D750 is the oldest of the 3, but still today a very capable camera. The video specs are not up to what a modern hybrid camera can offer, but if you are into stills only, this can actually be an advantage as you are not paying for features you will not be using. The ergonomics of the D750 is excellent as we know it from Nikon, the menu systems are well organized and intuitive and the image quality is still today excellent. The body only price is around 1500 USD here in December 2020, but black Friday deals or other kinds of offerings can probably get the price even further down. And the camera body has a built in auto focus motor, meaning that you have access to a huge amount of used AF Nikkor glass available on e-bay and the like. In terms of value, the D750 is hard to beat when talking stills only.

The Z6 was the first mirrorless from Nikon, and they did their homework well and hit the mark pretty well  with this first generation mirrorless camera. It is known to be a very good all round camera that does most things well, both stills and video. The critique of the camera was primarily that it only has one card slot and that there is no option to add a vertical grip, as the contacts are missing. This was fixed in the Z6 mark II, which in addition to fixing these shortcomings also added more computing power to the camera by adding an EXPEED processor. The introduction of the Z6 II gave rise to a price drop on the Z6, and the Z6 is around 1600 USD with an FTZ adaptor whereas the Z6 II is a 1000 USD more expensive than that. So if you are not nervous about SD cards failing and not planning to use a vertical grip, the original Z6 seems the value choice of the two. And both of them have in-body image stabilization (IBIS) to help you avoid camera shake when you need to keep the shutter open for an extended period of time.

The big disadvantage of going mirrorless is the fact that Nikon changed the lens mount system, so that is is no longer compatible with the notorious F-mount system. The motivation for this move yielding a shorter flange distance is – other than giving the IBIS room to work – that it gives new options for designing simpler and better performing lenses. It quickly gets technical, but that is the gist of it after reading Nikons explanation.

You have to buy an FTZ adapter, that can be had for around 100 USD when you buy it together with the camera body. But, there is a big but: The adapter does NOT have an AF motor, nor does the Z6 camera body, meaning that all the Nikkor AF vintage glass is now suddenly manual focus. This is where things to get complicated in terms of choosing between mirrorless or DSLR: The Z6 cuts you off from using mechanical auto focus on a lot of good vintage glass. And mind you that the glass that fits the new Z6 mount is expensive. You may be able to make a good deal if you buy a kit zoom lens together with the camera, but building your lens portfolio after that is VERY expensive relative to the DSLR options.

The Nikon D780 seems to try to bridge between the two worlds described above. It is a merger of the Z6 and the D750, so that in Live View mode, the camera is very similar to the Z6, whereas shooting via the viewfinder is very similar to the D750. So you get the best of both worlds, and maintain access to vintage glass with mechanical auto focus.  And price wise the body alone is around 2300 USD, and hence significantly more expensive than the Z6, but that money could easily be saved when building (or re-using) a lens portfolio.

So what to choose as an enthusiast? “It depends…” – the most annoying answer of all, but unfortunately it is true.

The first thing I would ask myself in choosing between the 3 is: How important is video? One area where the cameras get better and better is video capability and if video is important to you, the D750 is struggling. But also think about how demanding your video requirements are – a GoPro next to your D750 could be a solution? Or maybe 1080p is all you need? Anyway, the more demanding your video requirements are, the less good and option the D750 is.

The second thing I would ask is: How important is auto focus? If you shoot things that are moving fast (sports and wildlife), then using vintage AF glass on a Z6 is a no go. You either have to buy F-mount glass with built in motors (AF-S) or go for glass that fits the new Z-mount directly. If you are on a budget and auto focus is important, your cheapest option is to go for the D750/D780 with vintage AF glass. But again, if face detection and eye recognition is important because you shoot a lot of portraits, then you have to use the D780 in Live View mode or go for the Z6. If auto focus is not important to you, then you are in luck: the Z6 will offer you the option to use cheap vintage glass via the FTZ adaptor and you will get focus peak assistance to help you obtain focus precisely and with great illustration of the focal plane.

The third thing I would ask is: How much vintage glass have I got to re-use? If you have a large portfolio of Nikkor vintage glass, and a good deal of this is with mechanical AF, then you can protect that investment with the D750 or the D780. Provided of course that you love your glass and want to continue to use if. If you are more meh-he, then the better option may be to sell your glass and go for the mirrorless Z6 or Z6 II. Your experience from building a lens portfolio then comes in handy, so you have a more focused mind when building your new portfolio.

What have I chosen to do? I am still with my D750. I shoot video  on a Sony A7 RII so I have no need for better video capability currently. And the D750 with the mechanical AF motor built in, makes my collection of Nikkor vintage glass a joy to use. And as I seldom shoot anything fast moving, my auto focus requirements are all solved using single point focus. But mind you that this is what works for me given my situation and what I shoot – yours is different I am sure, so what fits me surely is no guarantee to fit you.

Thank you for reading this far! Comments are more than welcome!

Using full frame glass on cropped sensors – what happens?

One of the things I love about Nikon is the vast amount of cheap vintage glass that is out there on e-bay, plus their backwards compatibility – all the way back to 1950 or thereabout. Than means that most of the Nikon glass that they have produced since back then, can be used on a modern Nikon camera. And if you don’t like Nikon camera bodies, you can buy an adapter to fit the glass on the camera body of your preference.

Back in the film days full frame (FF) was the standard, as it was 35 mm film and not a digital sensor that sat in the cameras. That changed during the 1980’s and later, so that most cameras today have a digital image sensor. And for starters the digital sensor had the same size as the negative on a film – approximately 35 mm. What also changed was the amount of available sensor sizes. The so called APS-C and other reduced formats were introduced, along with new lenses. The advantage being that it was possible make lighter and cheaper glass, as the light would have to cover a smaller sensor. Although being smaller, the APS-C sensors could easily cram say 24 MP into the sensor despite the reduced size and hence a new fan base was created – people who do not want to carry heavy glass but on the other hand do not like the idea of reducing the resolution of the sensor.

Nikon made the APS-C cameras so that they used the same mount – the so called F-mount. That means that you can mount glass designed for APS-C on a full frame camera, and the other way around: mount full frame (FF) glass on a APS-C camera. It is the latter case I want to explore in this post, to see what happens.

In the best of worlds I would have shot the test shots with two Nikon cameras, say the D700 (full frame) and the D7500 (APS-C) or the D5600 (APS-C), but I lost my D7500 in a salt water accident and I have sold my D5600 to finance new gear, so I simply do not have a Nikon APS-C camera anymore. Luckily, I do have a Fuji X-T3 camera, which has an APS-C sensor size. And with an adaptor from K&F concept, I can mount the full frame lens on the Fuji camera:

Fuji X-T3 with a K&F adaptor to allow the Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 to be mounted

The disadvantage is that I now have to focus manually, and that the camera cannot control the aperture so I have to set the aperture on the lens itself. Further, the EXIF information that I get with the picture does not show the aperture anymore, as the lens and the camera cannot “talk” to each other – it is a dumb adapter. But for the purpose of this test, it is no big issue.

I am testing here with a wide lens, the Nikon 24mm f/2.8, and first I want to show you the picture taken on the Nikon D700 full frame body. The subject here is a little clay figure and I have put some items on the table to give some sense of the depth in the picture:

Nikon 24mm f/2.8 at ISO 400 f/2.8 – full frame sensor
Nikon 24mm f/2.8 at ISO 400 f/2.8 – cropped sensor

The second picture is taken on the Fuji X-T3 using the same lens with the adapter shown previously. As you can see, it seems like the little figure on the table has moved much closer and the frame is much less wide. For example, you cannot see the door to the right anymore and the stands to the right are almost gone.

This is known as the crop factor. When you use full frame glass on an APS-C sensor, then the picture is cropped because the sensor only uses the center part of the light from the glass.

The crop factor is typically 1.5 (for Cannon I believe it is closer to 1.6), and shooting with a 24 mm FF lens on an APS-C sensor as I have here, is the equivalent of shooting with a 36mm lens on a FF sensor. That explains why the frame is less wide and the subject appears closer.

Some say the crop factor is also to be applied to the aperture, so that the 24 mm f/2.8 is actually a 36 mm f/4. Below I have the two shots next to each other in Lightroom, where I have zoomed in on the FF version to the right, so that the clay figure has roughly same size. And then I have put some small lights that I normally use to test bokeh, to see if the full frame version would yield more background blur than the APS-C one. As far as I can tell, they are very similar:

The reason could be that f/2.8 and f/4 are both very wide apertures where the level of background blur does not change much, but from this test alone, I cannot conclude that you need to apply the crop factor also to the aperture to achieve equivalence.

Thank you for reading this far! Please don’t hesitate to leave a comment below or click the like button!